Living in China. My New Life Awaits

Tuesday, April 23, 2013, will go down in my memory as one the best, and most lucky, days of my life.

First of all I began my journey back to China from America. I’ve spent that last 4 weeks in Flat Rock, North Carolina, and believe me, going back to Shenzhen from the bucolic countryside was eagerly anticipated.

I changed planes in Chicago, and that’s where my luck turned from good to exceptional. Checking my email, I got a message from Terry Hasshold of England. He informed me, “Your Email has won (£1,373,420 pounds) in our British Promotion.contact us for details via: lottery_britishnational@ymail.com Sir Edmond Newton.”

Imagine the smile on my face when reading this news. This comes to more than 2 million USD. Visions of Ferrarris began dancing in my head.

But that was only the beginning of my good fortune. Reading on down the list of emails, I came across one from Mrs.Mona-Saeedi who said, “Please forgive me if I intrude your privacy, we do not know each other but it does not matter. what matters is transperency between us in this deal. I am Mrs.Mona-Saeedi, a Muslim woman. I have sent you this message for an inheri tance/business deal. please contact me on my personal email for more details: mrs.mona_saeedi274@outlook.com.”

Quickly putting 2 and 2 together, I thought I might use some of my lottery prize money to invest with Mrs.Mona-Saeedi, thus increasing my newfound wealth.

Unfortunately my flight was called before I could respond to these messages, so I had to wait until I arrived in Shenzhen to reply. Believe me, the long flight seemed even longer than it actually was due to my anticipation and excitement.

During the flight I wondered if I should find new friends in China, as the current circle is not in the same economic class I am in now. Quite frankly, some of them are embarrassments. Maybe an upgrade in my social status would be in order. Should I abandon La Casa in favor of the Four Seasons’ clubs and lounges? Where can I find a good tailor? What is swankiest address in Shenzhen? I don’t drive, so how much to hire a chauffeur?

I tried to take a nap while pondering these and other questions on the 16 hour flight, but was too excited to sleep.

Finally the plane arrived in Hong Kong. After purchasing a box of expensive Cuban cigars at the Duty Free store, I made my way to to Shenzhen, arriving about 21:00. I quickly fired up the computer and sent messages to both Terry Hasshold and Mrs.Mona-Saeedi. I am anxiously awaiting their replies as I look forward to the new life I will soon be living. I doubt I’ll be able to sleep tonight.

Living in China. I Made It Rain in Shenzhen Today

It seems like it hasn’t rained more that a light drizzle in Shenzhen for many weeks, maybe several months. The vegetation seems healthy, so I assume it’s not a problem. Most likely there is enough baby piss running off the sidewalks to keep things green.

I come from a family of farmers, and I’ve always heard rain is good, though I’ve always questioned this. Still, I was a bit concerned. Could it be possible that plants actually need rain as my grandfather told me? Maybe, maybe not. He was old. How much could he actually have known?

When I fired up my p.c. this morning the little weather icon said it would be warm with a 30% chance of a thunder shower. Nothing unusual there. There were similar predictions many days over the past several weeks, and it never rained.

But in the unlikely case that my grandfather was right, and plants actually need water to thrive, I decided to make it rain today.

How did I do this? Easy. I purposely went out without an umbrella.

As soon as I hit the street there was a light drizzle. It didn’t last very long, and didn’t even wet the pavement. I continued my umbrella-less walk.

I choose a route that kept me close to overhangs and cafes where I could take shelter in bad weather. The sky got darker. There were occasional lightening flashes.

Suddenly it hit. A full fledged thunder storm. I ducked into a café to read until it passed.

The storm didn’t last very long. It began at 14:40 and ended by 15:10. Still, a lot of water fell from the sky. I feel certain the sidewalks were cleansed of baby piss, the sewers were flushed, and the trees were watered,

So all the farmers and street cleaners of Futian can thank me for this weather event. I am available for banquets, honoraria, and light worship.

 

Living in China. Sunlight Is the Best Disinfectant

NOTE: An edited version of this piece appeared in the Shenzhen Daily.

As every person in Shenzhen who has a balcony knows, sunlight is a great disinfectant. If you place a pair of smelly sneakers in the bright light of the sun for a few hours they will be good as new. The same principle applies to much of life, both public and private.

The now infamous case of Yang Dacai, a government official in Shaanxi Province, smiling at the scene of a deadly traffic accident while wearing a very expensive watch led to netcitizens publishing even more pictures of Yang wearing some 11 different expensive watches. This led to Yang’s dismissal, but the matter didn’t end there. A college student from Hubei Province filed suit to have Yang’s salary disclosed. Ultimately it is the people who pay the salaries of government officials. The people should have a right to know how their money is being used.

Recently the U.S. government tried to deflect blame from its mistakes in Libya where 4 citizens including the ambassador were murdered. The government first said it was the result of a spontaneous demonstration against a short film that insulted Mohammed, and couldn’t have been foreseen. That was a lie, and the lie was quickly exposed by people on the ground in Libya who posted pictures of armed militia members at the embassy on the internet. Armed militia don’t go to a peaceful unorganized demonstration carrying RPGs. The rest of the media quickly began investigating, and within a few few weeks the U.S. government admitted the attack was well a planned terrorist assault and the embassy should have been better prepared. The movie had nothing to do with it.

Cai Bin, a member of the Guangzhou government has been exposed on the internet for owing 21 real estate properties worth 40 million yuan (6.3 million USD) Many are registered to his wife and other family members. When asked about it Cai refused to give complete answers. His salary is officially secret, but it is estimated to be about 10,000 yuan/month ($1,600 USD). The existence of these properties was uncovered by private citizens who posted the information on the internet. The postings led to official investigations.

Li Dejin, an official in the Communications Department, of Fujian Provence came under fire recently when he replaced a story that was to be published describing his expensive clothing and watch with an advertisement. The author vented his anger on his Weibo page.

Every few weeks a story similar to those above appears online or in the newspapers. There are more than 660,000 government employees who have been investigated for various violations in the past five years. Some of the most flagrant violations make the papers or the web. There are surely many more, and just a small number are caught.

If the government becomes more open about its officials’ salaries, responsibilities, and financial affairs, it won’t end corruption, but it may slow it down. Instead of buying expensive watches, clothing or cigarettes, corrupt officials will figure out ways to hide their ill gotten gains. The State Council has asked government workers to follow a frugal life style. In other words, don’t show off your wealth. Hide it.

In the October 22 issue of the Global Times it was reported that the Ministry of Railways (MOR) was stonewalling request to disclosed the bidding process for it online ticketing system. There is no reason these details should be suppressed. That is that something was not quite right about how the MOR went about the procurement process. Sunlight from the beginning to the end would have prevented public suspicion of how the public’s money was spent.

Shenzhen Railway Station

In the bad old days these exposes might have been squashed and the reporters sent to labor camps. In today’s world, thanks to the internet, it is hard to suppress the scandals. Still, the government needs to be more transparent. The government needs to let the sunshine in.

The inner workings of Chinese businesses also need to be exposed to sunlight. Just recently the China Securities Regulatory Commission (CSRC) ruled against allowing the mergers of seven companies because of irregularities in the market value reports. The CSRC will announce new regulations on transparency soon, as well as making public the results of its examinations.

The problem with the lack of transparency in businesses is it allows companies to list their shares based on unrealistic valuations. This raises nice sums of money for the companies, but it unfair to those who purchase the shares.

There are several Chinese companies listed on American stock exchanges which are under investigation for inflating their values using shady accounting tricks.

Netcitizens, cell phones, and general public awareness are not enough to end corruption. In both business and government, sunlight is the best disinfectant. While transparency in what is going on will not end all corruption, but it will certainly help.

Living in China. Open Mic Night

Last night, March 3, was open mic night at La Casa. We went for dinner and music. Here are a few pics.

The first is a view of the inner courtyard at CoCo Park, a large shopping mall across the street from La Casa.

Next is the potato, prosciutto, and rosemary pizza I had for dinner. Excellent.

The guitarist in the center is Kevin, my editor at Shenzhen Daily. He writes all his own words and music, most are very clever.

The rest are random pictures from the night. We didn’t leave until after 01:00. It was a fun night.

 

Heartbreak, Thy Name Is Pizza

While waiting for a traffic signal today, a kid on a bicycle stopped next to me. He was wearing a red helmet, a red shirt and carried a red warming basket on the back of his red bicycle. I assumed he was a Pizza Hut delivery boy.

But no. When I examined his warming box it said Champion Pizza. I’ve never heard of Champion Pizza, but it must be close to my house since we were crossing a street about 4 blocks from where I live. I asked the young man for a menu. He gave one to me.

One of my favorite foods is pizza. I have very specific tastes. I like very thin crust with tomato sauce, Italian sausage, and sweet green peppers. It should be finished off with mozzarella and Parmesan cheeses. The pizza must be baked in a wood fired oven. I have never had anything close to this anywhere in Asia.

The closest thing to a good pizza was served in a tourist place in Bangkok. It was made on a very thin crust, but didn’t have the right toppings. It was baked in a gas fired oven. It was served with a small sprig of uncooked basil, my favorite spice, which I tore into pieces and spread over the top. It brightened up the flavor.

In China, all pizza sucks. It is usually served baked on a medium thick crust. Whatever is considered cheese is nowhere near what I consider cheese, it reminds me of mayonnaise. The pizza is always soggy and greasy.

I’ve had pizza all over Shenzhen from Pizza Huts, to several so-called Italian restaurants, to individual slices from places like Vanguard, Walmart, and JUSCO. They are all terrible. By far the best pizza I’ve found in Shenzhen was made at La Casa.

So it was with great hope in my heart that I just ordered a pizza from Champion Pizza. I hope it will be a pleasant surprise, but rationally I know it will be a greasy, rubbery, bland, disappointment. Another heartbreak.

 

Toward Ending Corruption in China

A few weeks ago my friend journeyed from Shenzhen to his home province in order to change his legal residence and get a few other small things done. He allotted eight days for his trip from Sunday to Sunday. When the Sunday he was scheduled to return rolled around I got a message that it would be the following Sunday when he returned.

Why? Because the bureaucracy was so entangled, complicated, and self-contradictory that it was going to take the extra time to get all the papers filled with the proper red stamps.

For obvious reasons I can not go into great detail about what happened, but basically despite preparing as best he could, he ran into problems that he didn’t foresee. This was combined with some of the officials being on unauthorized days off, and unhelpful bureaucrats who caused him to chase his tale needlessly. On top of this he ended up paying some 6200 RMB in 1000-2000 RMB bribes to get some lower level clerks to stamp his papers immediately instead of leaving them to be picked up three days later.

As a consequence of all the mess he encountered, his trip took fifteen days instead of eight, and cost more than twice his original budget. My friend was so disgusted he vowed to never again return to his home province.

One of the major subjects of the Chinese Communist Party (CCP) meeting in Beijing is addressing the need to end corruption. Clearly party officials realize that dissatisfaction with the present system runs deep because of the pervasive corruption at all levels.

Much, if not most, of the corruption is institutionally embedded. Much results from state agencies which have been granted regulatory power without institutional constraints. Ending this type of corruption, graft, and unofficial prebendalism, could be ended by simplifying the rules. The fewer red stamps required in daily life would take away the lower level bureaucrats’ power to sell the red stamps in exchange for bribes.

In my friend’s case, there was no reason he should have had to return to his place of birth to get his residency changed. The laws governing movement of the and residency of people are byzantine and unnecessary. Complication breeds corruption.

I was born in Louisville, Kentucky, USA. I have never had to return to Louisville for any reason other than family visits. There have been a couple of times when I’ve needed a copy of my birth certificate, and all it took was a call to the hospital where I was born and a certified document arrived in the mail a few days later. I couldn’t imagine having to return to Louisville to attain it, much less doing bureaucratic acrobats in order to qualify for it.

China should learn from this simplified system. Beside being extremely efficient, it eliminates the possibility of a corrupt bureaucracy from growing up around the birth certificate game.

Admittedly the example above is tiny in comparison to the massive corruption at all levels in China, but it is this type of petty graft that confounds and angers the average citizen in the average day. High ranking officials and their families amassing fortunes are thought wrong, but are hardly a major influence in the day to day lives of the average citizen. Eliminating low level corruption by reforming bureaucratic rules would help more people than putting an occasional big shot in jail.

Some time ago a very wise person came up with the concept of KISS. Keep It Simple Stupid. He was an intelligent man indeed.

 

Let China Be Chinese

 

Recently there have been calls for legislation concerning civil behavior in Shenzhen. The question is what constitutes civil behavior, who decides, and how will it be enforced? Will it be based on public consensus or bureaucratic dictate? How will these rules, if adopted, be enforced? Are such rules even necessary?

Shenzhen has conducted polls of its citizens to see what they think is civilized behavior. The usual suspects such as spitting, smoking in non-smoking areas, street vendors, line breaking, and pushing on and off buses, trains and elevators came out on top. I’ve seen other suggestions like enforcing dental hygiene, no talking too loud in public places, and courtesy flushes in public toilets

Much of what foreigners consider uncivil behavior is what is considered accepted behavior in China. Most of these behaviors harm no one. So why the need to force Chinese to adopt western or other so-called civilized ways? In many, if not most cases, civilized behavior is no more than one person forcing their ideas upon another.

It is universally considered uncivilized to murder or steal from someone. There are a few other firm rules, but beyond these few rules, behavior is a personal decision. They should not be dictated by some to others.

There is something uniquely charming about sitting a in café and watching a young mother snatch up her baby to run him outside to a tree or a bush so he can urinate. This is surly considered uncivilized behavior, but what does it hurt? It is part of China.

The smoking Nazis are especially vocal in their demands to strictly limit smoking. But there has never been a legitimate study proving second hand smoke has any health effects on anyone. It may be rude to smoke in an elevator, but it won’t hurt anyone. A whiff of second hand smoke in a restaurant will not take a single second off the life of the person who breathes it. Still, smoking is in the cross hairs of the civilization fanatics. It’s true that it is a dirty habit that harms the health of the smokers, but it should be up to the smokers and the business owners, to decide who smokes where, not other citizens or the government.

On a personal level, a few days ago we were having dinner in a very nice restaurant. An old man at the table next to us spit on the carpet several times while I watched. No one at his table, the restaurant staff, nor other patrons said a word. I’m sure the old man didn’t think a thing about spitting on a carpet in a public place. He had probably been doing it all his life. Is it the government’s duty to stop spitting on carpets, or is it the job of the restaurant owners and staff? I think a well trained staff member should have provided him with a spittoon of some kind. No reprimand, law, or fine is necessary. Just an awareness that an alternative to spitting on the rug is available and desirable. I suspect the old man would never spit on a carpet again.

Street vendors have disappeared from my neighborhood. That is a shame because there is nothing better than street food, but it must for the general good. Also, outdoor tables at cafes are gone. One of the owners told me the police made them do it. Is this part of civilized behavior? Admittedly a street vendor has an advantage over a merchant selling the same things in a high rent store front.

On one hand no person’s behavior should result in harm to another person. On the other hand we don’t want a highly regulated society where everyone is forced to act the same. Does spitting on a sidewalk harm anyone? Doesn’t everyone wear shoes?

 

This is China, folks. It’s not Switzerland, USA, Singapore, or Israel. Enjoy China for what it is. Don’t to make China into Europe. The calls for rules of civil behavior or calls for everyone in the world to act the same. What a boring world that will be.

 

Registering Electric Bikes in Shenzhen

 
Electric bicycles have been called a “silent killer” stalking the streets and sidewalks of Shenzhen. A few years ago the bikes were banned from major highways and streets. Recently there have been calls for the licensing of these vehicles in the city. As of now the calls have been wisely rejected.

In the September 7-9, 2012 issue of the Shenzhen Daily an interview with a British citizen appeared. The Brit called for more regulations on electric bikes. He pointed out that the bikes are fast and silent. He said that their drivers often ignore rules of the road. He said the drivers are not civil and act irresponsibly. Finally he said he has witnessed several accidents involving the bikes and pedestrians.

While I have never read the appropriate regulations, I’m sure it is already illegal to speed, ignore stop lights, ride on sidewalks, go the wrong way on a road, or run down pedestrians. How will adding a licensing process help to insure these laws are followed or help enforce the already existing laws? In fact, nowhere in the interview did the interviewee state how more regulations would solve the problems with the bikes he mentioned.

How can forcing a bike rider to go to some government bureaucracy to register, probably pay some money for a tag of some kind, and kill a half a day solve anything? All it would do is waste the time and money of the riders. There are already many rules of the road that apply to cars, trucks, bikes, and other vehicles. Many, if not most, of these rules are routinely ignored. Will forcing bike riders to get a red stamp on some piece of paper makes them better drivers? I think not.

Also the interviewee said he had witnessed several non-serious accidents between bikes and pedestrians. I have lived in a very crowded lower middle class neighborhood for more that 5 years. There are bikes all over the sidewalks and streets. I have never witnessed an accident involving a bike. I’m not saying that accidents never happen, surely they do. I’m saying I’ve been lucky not to have been involved in any way.

The China Daily estimated there were a half million electric bikes in Shenzhen in 2011. There are probably a few more today. If each of these half million drivers is forced to spend a half day registering their bike, it comes to 250,000 eight hour days lost from productive labor. If the registration process only takes two hours, that is still 125,000 working days lost. These days could be spent doing something far more rewarding than standing in line at a government office. Never mind the fees that are sucked out of the economy.

Additionally, by adding the burden of registration to owning an electric bike may discourage some from purchasing one. This would harm a home grown industry in China during a time of economic slow down.

If e-bikes are registered and licensed, what will be next? Pedal powered bikes are just as silent, and can go almost as fast. Will they be the next project for well meaning do-gooders to help insure life involves absolutely no risk from anything? What a sterile world that would be.

 

In Defence of the Chinese People

 

Last week, June 27, 2012, I returned to Shenzhen after living almost exactly a year in America where I was recovering from an illness. I had heard the Chinese people were turning more and more xenophobic, and that foreigners were less welcome than before. I got this information from the American new media, and from my friends who remained in Shenzhen. It was with more than a little trepidation that I boarded the plane to Hong Kong.

My fears were completely unfounded. So far I have not encountered a single unfriendly face. When I hobbled up to the news stand a couple of blocks from my house, the woman who runs it had a Shenzhen Daily and a Global Times out and waiting for me. Though she doesn’t speak a word of English, and I barely speak a word of Mandarin, it was clear we were like old friends meeting after a long absence.

At the barbecue place close to my house the waiter remembered me and I didn’t even have to order. He brought me 5 mutton skewers, 3 oysters, an ear of grilled corn, and 2 ice cold Tsingtao beers, my standard order that he remembered from last year.

On my way to the bus stop yesterday one of the parking lot guards recognized me from behind. We shook hands and exchanged what I assume were pleasant greetings, though neither could understand the other

While I get lots of stares while walking the streets I get the impression it’s because it’s unusual for a westerner to be seen in my neighborhood. None of the looks seems at all hostile or unwelcoming.

I tried to enter a café a couple of days ago, but was unable to navigate the three steps up to the entrance. A waiter I did not know came out and let me use his shoulder to help me up. When I left, he did the same thing to help me down the stairs.

Where the rumors of anti-foreigner feelings originated I have no idea. They are certainly untrue.

My suspicion is many of these thoughts originate with American politicians who are forever posturing against the Chinese for producing goods for less money than they can be made in America. They try to vilify the Chinese for “stealing” American jobs. They threaten to levy tariffs on Chinese made goods so it will become economically feasible to produce them in America again.

This, of course, is complete rubbish. Taxing goods made in China so they are more expensive will only hurt American consumers. The jobs will not return to America. Instead they will move to India, Bangladesh, or Vietnam.

When the Chinese government hears this kind of political rhetoric in America it responds with similar threats to tax American made goods. In the end, usually nothing happens. There might be some hard feeling brought to the surface between the politicians of the two countries, but the political hot air has not reached most of the people one encounters on the street.

I read that the government is starting a crack down on foreigners who overstay their visas or are working here illegally. I hardly consider this to be an anti-foreigner trend. I consider it an anti-crime trend. As long as foreigners obey the laws and respect the Chinese people, there should be no problems.

In conclusion I must say that little if anything has changed between the people of China and foreigners over the past year. Everyone remains friendly and hospitable. China is a great place for a visit or a long term stay. The Chinese people are wonderful, thoughtful, and friendly.

 

Adventures in Medicine

 

In early 2011, I had persistent problems with my legs, including falling during my afternoon walk and spraining my ankles, slipping on a mopped floor, and being accused of being drunk by my landlord. The truth was I was suffering from a muscle disorder that caused me to gradually lose the strength to walk. Then in March, I slipped and fell in my bathroom and the pain was unbearable. Even to my untrained eye, I could see that I had broken my ankle in at least two places. My Chinese girlfriend called an ambulance. I was taken to Peking University Hospital in Shenzhen.

I had heard it was the second best hospital in China. Since I had heard good things about the health care in Cuba (a country with a similar system), I expected to receive a reasonably high standard of care in Shenzhen.

Upon arrival I had two main problems, an ankle that had been broken in three places, and the muscle disorder that caused severe pains which shot through my legs like an electrical current. During the first week, two appointments for surgery to fix the ankle were not honored and it was explained to me that the schedule for surgery was necessarily loose. After complaining to a female doctor, I was finally given the operation.

Before the operation, they stopped giving me pain medication at night. I laid awake suffering from the throbbing and electricity in my legs and the broken bone. I asked a nurse if I could have something to ease the pain so I could sleep. She said they only gave heavy medication for a limited time because otherwise addicts would do things like break their own ankles to have access to it.

During my four weeks at the hospital, doctors frequently told me that the pain and weakness in my legs was caused by nutritional deficiency. Their suggestions included eating more food to regain my strength, exercising by by swinging my feet from the side of the bed, and rolling from side to side in bed. The bed was the size of a coffin and on one occasion I fell off. Falling through the air with no legs to help break the impact is a scary experience, and I am not easily scared.

During my stay in the hospital the disease that attacked my legs began to enter my brain. My state of mind deteriorated to the point of delirium. My memory of much of my experience became increasingly fuzzy.

But some things I do remember. I was skeptical about the diagnosis of nutritional deficiency because I am a big man, some 9kg overweight. I checked the symptoms on the Internet, and suggested to my doctors that what I might have Guillain-Barre Syndrome. The head doctor was livid that I would try to diagnose myself when I was not a trained medical professional. He compared my behavior to a guest telling a host how to run their private home. There seemed to be an unwavering dedication to hierarchy but a distinct lack of devotion to genuine medical science or human empathy.

Speaking of being a guest, I felt us patients were at the bottom of the hospital hierarchy. Although my memory of most of the stay is fuzzy, I remember being told upon leaving “good luck,” instead of being given any informed medical advice. The fuzziness of my memory and my delirium must explain the poor judgment I showed in not simply flying back to America at the first sign of illness.

When I returned to America in April, my pain and weakness were found to be caused by arsenic poisoning. After my body was flushed of as much of the poison as possible, I entered physical therapy where my muscles and nerves began to slowly regenerate. And not one doctor ever told me to swing my legs off the side of the bed.

If it weren’t for the saintly patience of my girlfriend, my ordeal in China would have been even worse. As for the doctor who dismissed my suggestion, and the landlord who accused me of being a drunk in exchange for being a flawlessly behaved tenant for two years, humility and open-mindedness are admirable traits in a person, and also in an entire city.

In spite of its vast shopping malls, packed with luxury brands, and the abundance of five star hotels, Shenzhen will not be recognized as a truly great international city until foreign guests are treated like guests in exchange for acting like them.